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A Postcard From Bordeaux

By Katja Gaskell

A Postcard From Bordeaux

by Katja Gaskell

This is a feature from Issue 14 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.

A City of Surprises

There’s a reason why Bordeaux is often called La Belle Endormie (sleeping beauty); for decades the city sat under a gloomy cloud, its buildings covered in soot and its city centre choked with traffic. But thanks to a tram system introduced by mayor Alain Juppé in the early 2000s and a renovated riverbank, fast-forward to today and Bordeaux is one of the most popular destinations in France – soot-free, and filled with vibrant cultural spaces, excellent restaurants, hip cafes, and beautiful boutiques.
The Saint Pierre and Saint Paul districts are the historic heart of the
city and the birthplace of present-day Bordeaux. I spent a morning
wandering the characterful narrow streets past famous monuments including the Grosse Cloche (the bell tower), the Porte Cailhau (the ancient gate to the city) and through various charming squares lined with restaurants and cafes doing a brisk trade.

Eklo Bordeaux is an affordable and eco-friendly hotel just behind Darwin and nect to Bordeaux's botanic garden

Eventually, I ended up in La Place de la Bourse, a grand, elegant square that was built in the 1720s. The best place to view the square is from across the road at Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror), the world’s largest reflecting pool. On sunny days locals and visitors of all ages walk and splash across the expanse of shallow water.

One of the most exciting developments in Bordeaux in recent years is Darwin. Located on Bordeaux’s right bank, Darwin has been designed to show what a new ‘city’ can look like. Built from the remains of a former military barracks, the community is home to co-working spaces, workshops, an indoor skate park, and the biggest organic dining hall in Europe.

Wine is a big deal in Bordeaux– and many bars will serve a huge variety of options by the glass

There’s also a bakery, an urban farm and even a school. Every September, it hosts the annual Climax Festival, an eco-focused music, arts, and culture festival. It’s a colourful place to visit, and not just because of the vibrant street art everywhere. Wandering its walkways then sipping a locally brewed beer from Lalune at Chantiers de la Garonne, it was the perfect spot to finish my weekend in Bordeaux, and to start planning my return.

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This is a feature from Issue 14 of Charitable Traveller.