There’s no need to stand on ceremony in Cody’s Irma Hotel. You’d raise more eyebrows asking for the vegan menu than keeping your hat on while you eat. Built by the legendary Buffalo Bill and named after his daughter, the hotel sports stag heads on the wall, a bullet-pocked tin ceiling, clashing flower print walls and carpets and a shiny cherry wood bar, which was donated to Bill by Queen Victoria. My slab of the famous prime rib came with a side of fries, garlic bread and ghost stories, from owner Mike Derby. A former supernatural sceptic, he told me about waitresses being grabbed by thin air, half a solder floating through the room and a lady hovering above someone’s bed. “So yeah, I believe there is something here,” he said.