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This is a feature from Issue 10 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.
Along with the Norwegian region of Trondheim-Trøndelag, Menorca has been recognised as the European Region of Gastronomy in 2022. Awarded by the International Institute for Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism (IGCAT), this status is intended to raise awareness about the importance of unique cultures and their cuisine, as well as stimulating gastronomic innovation and boosting sustainable tourism.
I was lucky enough to enjoy a gastronomic tour of Menorca this year and discover how the island’s rich cuisine reflects its history. Arròs de la terra, or ‘Moorish rice’, reflects the Arab occupation of the island in the 10th century. The French arrived three centuries later and then the English colonised the island, bringing gin – what else? But Menorcan cuisine is perhaps best known for mayonnaise, or Menorca mahonesa, which was purportedly created by a monk in the 18th century.
My companions and I take it in turns to create our own version of this mayonnaise at Finca Binillubet agritourism farm, mixing egg yolk with olive oil and adding salt and lemon to taste. Binillubet is part of a cooperative of some 500 farmers that has existed for 77 years. We are also shown how the local cheese is made, filtering raw cow’s milk through a muslin cloth, which is left to sit in brine and then dried. Squeezing the serum from the cheese is fun, although I do not envy anyone who purchases my effort!
In Restaurante Aquarium, in Port Ciutadella, I taste a divine tuna tartare, served with guacamole on a thin pastry. The smoky flavours blend perfectly with a Binitord wine, served with the freshest prawns, and followed by a casserole of local fish.
Next, I learn to pair Menorcan cuisine with local beer. Vicent started his small craft brewery, Es Moli de Foc, 11 years ago, and now his brewery produces 10 varieties. In the adjacent restaurant, a crisp pilsner is served with a sea bass ceviche and a wheat beer with baby squid. The balance of flavours, textures and colours are all perfectly executed.
I sample a Menorcan breakfast at Son Vives, an agritourism hotel with twelve charming rooms where you can stay and enjoy the tranquillity and rural vistas, milk the cows or see how they make cheese. The freshly-laid eggs taste nothing like the ones you buy in UK supermarkets, and are served with a grilled cheese much like halloumi, though less salty.
Last stop is the capital Mahon’s small farmer’s market. Joan Luis and his wife have been selling their food here for 11 years and tell me that most of the produce is organic. My last snack is crustel de brisad, a pastry made from a ricotta-type cheese created from that milk serum we squeezed before. Little is wasted on this sustainable island and you certainly won’t waste away either.
Mark Bibby Jackson is the founder of Travel Begins at 40, a website for people over 40 who want to travel responsibly and imaginatively.
This is a feature from Issue 11 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.
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