A Postcard From McLeod Ganj, India
A Postcard From McLeod Ganj, India
This is a feature from Issue 9 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.
Little Lhasa
Have you ever arrived in a new town and felt like you’ve entered a different country? McLeod Ganj is in the Indian province of Himachal Pradesh but it’s nicknamed Little Lhasa because it’s the home of the exiled Dalai Lama and lots of other Tibetans, many who escaped over the mountains from Chinese-occupied Tibet just like their leader.
The town clings to the forested Himalayan foothills at an altitude of 5,577 feet. The air is fresher here and during British rule it was a hill station where people came to escape the heat. Yesterday I went even higher, walking through cedar forests fluttering with prayer flags to Bhagsu Falls, a 20 metre-high waterfall which gushes down a lush, misty valley. Nearby was Bhagsunath Temple, dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and surrounded by healing springs.
The community here is mixed, to say the least. The town is full of Tibetans, including many monks and nuns, but it also attracts a hefty crowd of backpackers, who come for a mixture of reasons. There are lots of trekkers, heading into the hills, there are those seeking enlightenment by volunteering with the Tibetan community or taking courses in yoga or meditation, and there are people who just come to soak up the relaxed vibe and take a break from the more hectic parts of India. I’ve met lots of Israelis, mostly fresh out of the army after their compulsory service and embracing hippie culture in their yak hair socks and Hindi-patterned scarves.
While you're in McLeod Ganj, you can volunteer to help Tibetan refugees learn English
Spiritual & Surreal
This place is always unexpected. I spent this morning in the Tsuglagkhang Temple Complex, spinning the red, blue, green and gold prayer wheels for good karma. Then I went to a games café and watched maroon-robed monks shooting pool. I’m now I’m listening to Tibetan singing bowl music and eating vegan noodles. Sadly the Dalai Lama doesn’t make public appearances anymore – he is 86 – but tomorrow I’ll visit his temple and join the monks for their morning meditation and chanting.
Tibetan food includes momos steamed or fried dumplings stuffed with hearty fillings
Book your escape to McLeod Ganj with us and donate 5% of your holiday price to the charity of your choice at no extra cost to you. Click the button below to get in touch with us!
This is a feature from Issue 9 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.
by net effect