Jersey: Living History
As the custodian of the island’s historical legacy, Jersey Heritage offers visitors the chance to stay in some of its special historic properties. Elaine Wilson checks in
This is a feature from Issue 21 of Charitable Traveller Magazine.
Waking up in the centuries-old Fort Leicester, I completely lose track of time. The morning sunlight is filtering through the high casement windows and the thick stone walls muffle any outside noises. It’s a similarly timeless sensation across the island as I
watch the sun set from the battlements of Elizabeth Castle, with its panoramic views out to sea.
As I’d booked to stay in these Jersey Heritage properties, I was not only enjoying some unique accommodation but also helping contribute to the preservation of the island’s cultural treasures. It’s a chance for visitors to become part of the living narrative of Jersey, where the past becomes the present, and you can add your own little chapter to the building’s story.
Set in the English Channel, and closer to the French coast than England’s, Jersey stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of Anglo- European history and heritage that makes up the very fabric of this small Channel Island.
With roots reaching back thousands of years, Jersey has witnessed many conflicts and even occupation by the Germans during World War Two. This has left Jersey with a legacy reflected in its rugged landscapes and more than its fair share of strategic defences.
Fort Leicester, built into a high cliff overlooking beautiful Bouley Bay on the north-east of the island, serves as a sentinel frozen in time. First constructed in the 17th century as a bulwark against French invaders, its weathered stone steps echo with the footsteps of soldiers long gone. Now a spectacular three-tier stay for the adventurous visitor, Fort Leicester stands as a silent witness to the resilience of the islanders. And due to how it sits within the surrounding rock face, visitors have to go outside to get from one level to another. It provides a great opportunity for youngsters (or the moderately fit) to run off their energy on the many flights of steps that are part of the structure.
A most unusual place to stay, the first level of the fort houses the small kitchen, lounge and outside dining area. The second level is up a flight of very steep stone steps to a bunkbed bedroom and a separate flight of steps to the only bathroom (it really is a loo with a view!). The third set of steps takes you up to the large main bedroom, which has a double bed plus two singles. There’s an open log fire in this bedroom and I fall asleep to the sound of the ocean drifting up the cliff side of my protected eyrie.
On the other side of the island close to the capital of St Helier, Elizabeth Castle sits a mile out at sea. I cross to the castle on foot, walking across the causeway in about 15 minutes as the tide is out. Later, when the tide is in, I experience the thrill of a ride on the fabulous amphibious vehicle, Betty, both a bus and a boat, depending on water levels.
Named after Queen Elizabeth I, this ancient fortification has witnessed sieges, skirmishes and bombing raids over its lifetime. I feel like I’ve stepped back in time to 1781 when I meet the Castle Gunner, who tells me the story of the Battle of Jersey. Be prepared to be drafted into the Midday Parade, when the musket and cannon are fired.
The comfortable castle apartment sleeps six and faces directly into the castle’s quadrangle. It’s cosy and warm, with a large bedroom with a double and two singles upstairs, and a sofa bed in the lounge, next to the spacious kitchen, downstairs.
The castle guardian lives just next door should you need any help with anything, and once the day visitors have gone I have the run of the castle and its extensive battlements – I could gaze out to sea from the top of the castle all day, and there is even a little private beach I have all to myself. You really can be King (or Queen) of your very own castle for the night.
Another amazing Heritage let available through Jersey Heritage is the Radio Tower, which has a jaw-dropping 360-degree view
from the lounge.
Set on a cliff-top overlooking Corbière lighthouse on Jersey’s south-west tip, the Radio Tower provides stunning self-catering accommodation over six floors. Built during the Second World War by German occupying forces, the Tower has been sympathetically restored in a German modernist style.
Once the day visitors have gone I have the run of the castle and its extensive battlements – I could gaze out to sea from the top of the castle all day
A concrete staircase winds through the centre of the building,
up six floors, to a wooden spiral staircase that takes you to the top
floor. Authentic features include observation slots on the seaward
side and steel doors on the ground floor. The second, third and fourth floors house three identical double bedrooms, each customised within the rounded walls of the Tower. This is the original high-rise living!
I leave the island with a renewed sense of its identity and a deeper connection with its stories – while the walls may not be able to talk I feel like these old buildings have done a great job of sharing their secrets with me.
Feeling inspired?
Click the links below to learn more about Jersey. Or reach out to our team of expert travel agents and plan your Jersey escape today! Remember – every time you book a holiday with you can donate 5% of the price to the charity of your choice for free!
This is a feature from Issue 21 of Charitable Traveller.
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