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A Postcard From Venice

Elizabeth Young

A Postcard From Venice

Elizabeth Young

This is a feature from Issue 12 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.

Epic skylines

Venice never disappoints. Sit in a café overlooking the Grand Canal and it’s like you’re in a Canaletto painting, atmospheric and moody. The historic skyline is unchanged by the centuries, its ancient network of canals and cobbled alleys, bridges and squares, have stood witness to generations of trade and commerce, aristocrats and artists. Today the trade is primarily tourists. Yesterday I walked past the queues waiting patiently in the blazing sun to climb the tower and look out over St. Mark’s Square, tour the splendour of the Doge’s Palace or the Basilica and snap selfies in front of the Bridge of Sighs or the Rialto. They’re everywhere, shopping for leather and Murano glass, queuing for ice cream and pizza. Of course, I’ve done all that too. But not today.

Rialto Market is open every day except Sunday Visit on a Saturday to see locals do their shopping

Hidden Charms

Today I discovered a secret, and if you’re coming to Venice you need to know it too. I woke early and left my companions sleeping off last night’s Aperols and Cicchetti (typical Venetian snacks – bread lavishly piled with delicious local toppings). I slipped out in the early hours before the shops were open and the tourists had emerged. It was a whole other city – a pure soul – thoughtful and full of depth, hidden below the froth and frivolity of those souvenirs and clichéd photos. I joined the locals at a food market beyond the Rialto Bridge, as they picked out octopus, artichokes, courgettes with their flowers still on, and fresh sardines. I picked up a croissant from a back street baker – the only place with a queue at this hour. Fillings included jam, creme patisserie, chocolate and pistachio paste.

 I watched old women string out their washing over the back canals, gondoliers lovingly polishing their boats, shopkeepers sweeping their front steps, commuters stepping aboard Vaporetto taxis and water buses, and panini sellers taking delivery of fresh, aromatic bread. If you think popularity has ruined Venice or made a cliche of its grand façade, explore it first thing in the morning and you’ll find a living city, full of soul.

Venice has over 400 bridges, but hidden gem Pont de Chiodo is one of only two with no sides.

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This is a feature from Issue 12 of Charitable Traveller.