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This is a feature from Issue 21 of Charitable Traveller. Click to read more from this issue.
Lithuanian cuisine is as complex as its history with many traditional dishes showcasing strong Polish and Russian roots. Having to rebuild itself in the 20th century, chefs across the capital are experimenting with traditional Lithuanian cuisine, taking flavours in new directions. Classic dishes have reappeared on café menus, such as šaltibarščiai – a bright pink, cold beetroot soup mixed with buttermilk and served with a hardboiled egg (the colour contrast is an Instagrammer’s dream, pictured here), or kibinai, a popular meat pie snack made with pork, sour cream and marjoram. Being a country with an avid foraging habit, many farmers markets in the city’s medieval heart introduce travellers to the Lithuanian diet by displaying staples from the woods such as berries, mushrooms and walnuts along with charcuterie, pickles and rye bread.
On a trip to Mexico, the culinary offerings of Oaxaca and Puebla are not to be missed. Both regions boast ancient culinary techniques and they’re also where mole (a spicy, nutty sauce) and mezcal (an agave spirit) are available in abundance. Craft your own food tour by starting at Puebla’s bustling Mercado de Sabores where you’ll find some chiles en nogada, a gastronomic treasure of stuffed poblano peppers drenched in a creamy walnut sauce, before heading to Mercado 20 de Noviembre in Oaxaca for mole poblano. Comedor Chabelita serves a classic black mole for breakfast along with enchiladas or tamales (stuffed corn dough). Feeling extra adventurous? Try the chapulines – toasted whole grasshoppers.
Beyond the barbecues and burgers, it’s the soul food of Louisiana that is extraordinary. The Pelican State’s culinary heritage is greatly influenced by a hearty concoction of Cajun and Creole culture, which often rival each other. While staples such as gumbo, po’boys and beignets should be on your list, don’t miss out on a crawfish étouffée. This stew is somewhat technical to balance correctly and though some may argue that it is a cousin to the jambalaya, it’s the roux of an étouffée that gives it a deep, complex flavour and makes it a triumph. For some deep-fried indulgence, stop at any of the gas stations dotted along the Interstate 10 and try a portion of boudin balls (ground pork and rice). Beyond New Orleans, smaller towns like Lafayette boast outstanding spots where you can enjoy some traditional brunch with live jazz or zydeco music.
In north-eastern Thailand, you’ll find the charming province of Kalasin, the centre for the country’s popular Isaan cuisine that’s based on sticky rice and spices. Food stalls open especially early here – some even start at 2am and end up selling out their star dishes, such as grilled chicken with fermented fish sauce and sticky rice, by dawn. Not to worry, as there’s still a lot to be enjoyed by lunchtime, such as the salt-crusted roasted fish called pla pao. Though each cook prepares the dish (typically using tilapia fish) in their own style, the fish is ordinarily stuffed with pandan leaves (some use kaffir lime leaves), covered in a thick layer of salt then grilled over flaming charcoal. Order a fiery papaya salad to accompany your pla pao to get a true balance of flavours. If getting to Kalasin is a stretch, there are eateries in Bangkok such as Som Tam Jay So that proudly serve Isaan cuisine.
Trinidad and Tobago has everything you’d want in a Caribbean holiday – it’s an idyllic island speckled with rainforests and surrounded by stunning blue waters. Beyond its beautiful landscape, the food is equally magnificent with a fascinating blend of Indian and African culture. The most famous dish is doubles, which draws inspiration from the Indian chole bhature. Spiced yellow chickpeas are served on a deep-fried flatbread called bara and laced with tangy chutneys made with tamarind and ubiquitous local greens called shado beni. Being a firm favourite, it is evident how deeply Trinidadians and Tobagonians value their culinary heritage. Though the Central Market in Port of Spain is a good spot to have your first doubles, there are numerous food trucks, most of which are family-owned, serving these across the island.
Though the Michelin star-studded regions of Catalunya and Basque Country get a lot of attention, the rice dishes and viticulture of more southern Murcia deserve due credit. Dishes like paella may be Valencia’s pride but Murcia, which is dubbed the ‘Garden of Europe’ is speckled with rice fields. It serves its own rice speciality called caldero, meaning cauldron, that is served with a garlic-heavy aioli. Head to the coastline, between Mar Menor and Cartagena, that is fringed with rocky bays and golden sands and stop by beach tavernas called chiringuitos to pair a portion of caldero with tinto de verano, a refreshing local red wine spritz.
This ancient student city has long been the hub for some of the world’s most celebrated dishes. The region’s culinary ancestry is based on some of Italy’s staples, such as egg-based, stuffed pastas and meat-heavy sauces such as ragù (often mistaken as Bolognese by tourists). Ask any local in Bologna and they are likely to choose the tortellini as their top dish, but they’ll also never say no to a big bowl of tagliatelle alla ragù. Beyond Bologna, every meal in Emilia-Romagna is a nod to gastronomic traditions that date back to the Middle Ages. Retaining ancient traditions in cheesemaking (Gran Padano, Parmigiano-Reggiano) and balsamic vinegar production, these products have become the stars of the table.
From flavourful somsas (baked pastries filled with mutton or potatoes) to a hearty plov (rice dish), this underrated city, which was an integral trading centre of the Silk Road, is a true gem. While visitors are likely to make their journey to admire the majestic, turquoise-hued minarets of Samarkhand, food is certainly a draw in Uzbekistan and there are many food tours to choose from in Tashkent. Friendly vendors in its main bazaar will gladly let you sample some fresh bread called obi non. Go easy on the plov as the rice is rich and oily but opt for a manti (steamed dumplings stuffed with meat) for a lighter option. Summers in Uzbekistan welcome an abundance of fruit, ranging from juicy pomegranates to apricots, apples, figs and peaches and there’s even a melon festival held every September.
West African cuisine has gained prominence over the last decade and Senegalese cuisine kicks up the spice levels a notch, where the local chillies are heavily incorporated in most recipes. At Dakar’s popular market, Marché Kermel, you’ll find all sorts of paraphernalia, but you’ll also notice the fresh ingredients that go into making a thieboudienne, the national dish of Senegal. This slow-cooked, one-pot broken rice delight carries strong French influences and a multitude of flavours with each bite. It is a true labour of love that includes marinated fish, such as white grouper, which is then combined with herbs and tomato puree and prepared over several hours.
It can be daunting to understand where to eat good food in India, but for those with a broad palate, the southern state of Kerala is the place to be. Its steaming dishes, often infused with coconut, come with their own heritage and style that is hard to replicate elsewhere in the country. There are dishes with a spicy kick here too, but the ones to try, to truly relish the region’s softer flavours, are its breakfast dishes. Head to one of the eateries in the coastal expanse between Kochi and Alleppey and order a rice and coconut pancake called appam with a mild vegetable stew or a plate of puttu, a steaming cylinder of layers of rice and coconut, with a black chickpeas kadala curry.
This is a feature from Issue 21 of Charitable Traveller.
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