A Postcard From Naples
By Heidi Roberts
The streets of Naples, with laundry hanging from each balcony, are so narrow your neighbour could easily take your washing in. I’m so pleased to see this hasn’t changed since I last visited when I was Inter-railing around Italy between school and university (a little while ago now!). Naples is a city steeped in history but while it certainly felt more modern this time, it’s just as lively and vibrant as I remember it. Naples is the home of the thin-crust Margherita pizza and as a dedicated pizza lover, I’m not disappointed when I order the classic with buffalo mozzarella at Gaetano Adamo (on Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi). It’s possibly the best pizza I’ve ever had. The next evening, we eat at Baccalaria on Piazzetta di Porto. It’s known as the temple of cod and good eating and serves salt cod in dishes that are out of this world. I’m eating a lot of seafood on this trip, not just at restaurants like Baccalaria but also at local little fish’n’chip-style places too.
Sfogliatella is a crescent-shaped flaky pastry filled with custard and enjoyed with a shot of espresso
Via San Gregorio Armeno is also known as Via deo Prespi, and is famous for its many artisan shops that specialise in creating presepi, or nativity scenes. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first nativity scene in 1223 in the town of Greccio, Lazio, but it was in Naples between the 1500s and 1700s that the craftsmanship really took off. They’re not only a religious symbol but also a form of art and a cultural expression that holds deep significance for many Italian families, and I’m amazed at how diverse they are, from the very traditional to the very modern or upbeat.
In Naples, many of the homes and hotels are hidden behind large wooden doors. My hotel, the Domus Deorum De Luxe (on Piazza Principe Umberto, a short walk from the main train station), is a fine example – behind its nondescript front door is an exquisitely well-run B&B with just four bedrooms and a delightful room- service breakfast of pastries and fresh fruit.
Fresh fish is a big deal on the menus here, and the Half Shell Raw Bar on the waterfront serves some of the best.
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This is a feature from Issue 20 of Charitable Traveller.
by net effect