Five small towns to visit in sicily
There’s no slow seduction from Sicily’s large cities. Palermo, Catania and Agrigento will lovebomb you with fine architecture, rich food and balmy evenings that carry on into the early hours. But there is a softer side to the island and it can be found in its smaller towns and villages. Here are five of Sicily’s finest
This is a feature from Issue 19 of Charitable Traveller.
1. Erice
There’s really only one way to get to the mountain town of Erice: the cable car from the port city of Trapani. You’ll find an abundance of churches to explore as you wind up the tiny alleyways to the main square. Less than 30,000 people live in the town and most days you’ll find them in the queue for Maria Grammatico’s famous sweets. Maria learned her trade at a local convent in Erice after the Second World War and now they’re famous the world over.
2. ORTIGIA
If you’ve got an interest in archaeology and Ancient Greece then Sicily is a veritable playground. Agrigento on the south coast will no doubt tempt you with its incredible Greek temples, but don’t miss out on Ortigia – the historical heart of Syracuse – where you’ll discover the ancient temples of Apollo and Athena. Ortigia is actually a tiny island just off the coast of the mainland, but there’s a bridge across. Hop on a bus, the town is almost entirely car free.
3. MARZAMEMI
If you love seafood then Marzamemi, on Sicily’s southernmost tip, is the village to visit. Famous for its tonnara (tuna), Marzamemi’s fishery itself is no longer active but fish still play a starring role in village life. The fisherman’s huts around the main square have been repurposed for local crafts, restaurants and ice cream parlours and local produce is a real source of pride in
Sicily so expect to sample plenty of seafood. When you’ve eaten your catch, settle in for the international film festival that takes place every summer.
4. CEFALU
Cefalu is actually a city, but it’s a very tiny one. Take the train along the coast from Palermo and you’ll be as close to the water as it’s possible to be. You might even be lucky enough to see a pod of dolphins travelling alongside you. When you arrive you’ll be welcomed by pretty alleyways to nip down through the old town, delicious ice cream on every corner and a beautiful beach. Sicily’s beaches aren’t celebrated as much as they should be, but this one is incredibly popular.
5. ENNA
Life moves very slowly in Enna, and that’s exactly what makes it such a wonderful stop if you’re travelling across the island. It is a place to take in the landscape with a glass of something cold, or take a stroll up towards the castle for an even better view. Make sure you visit nearby Lake Pergusa in the Erean Mountains, which can sometimes have a red hue. Going car free? Buses are usually more regular than trains and – crucially – air conditioned.
This is a feature from Issue 19 of Charitable Traveller.
by net effect